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This entry is under construction

While under construction, portions may be inaccurate, incomplete or missing useful pieces of information. In rewriting this document I became aware of other options (some of which I intend to include in this document), This document will be incomplete until I have time to receive and test the new parts. Until then, it may also be changed without notice as I find time to edit or update it. Essentially I started with the "obvious" approach and updated to a "better" approach and in so doing discovered an even better solution. I am currently debating which of these methods to include. So for now I will update the web version as I edit it for those who might actually be wondering what happens.

How to make a "STEP HERE" switch (Foot Pad).

March 5, 2018 (Updated on October 20, 2018)

Okay, I was wrong!

I made an assumption about footpads being simple switches and I was wrong (sort of). There are simple switch footpads, but that's probably not what you were looking for when you came here. This post has been re-written due to things learned while getting ready for Halloween 2018. The original post went to great lengths to show how to make a "switch" type of footpad and while the instructions were technically correct and those footpads worked for a number of my toys, it's not nearly as useful as knowing how to make a piezo footpad.

I'm going to tell you how to make a footpad (Step Here Pad). Not because I think they're useful, but because I used to think they were useful and when I wanted to make one, finding a "How To" didn't go too well for me. So now that I know how, I'll pass that on to you. but let me be clear, I think you'll get a much better return on your reading time by clicking on . . . Step Pads are good, but remote controls are better.

Now, I have to start this footpad tutorial by explaining that there are 2 types of foot pads. There are switch footpads, which typically work for Seasonal Visions animatronics as well as others with a "Try Me" connector. Then there is the piezo sensor type typically used by Spirit Halloween and Tekky Toys.

You probably think that your footpad is a simple switch (a mistake I made when writing the original version of this post). It's possible, since I have seen (and actually own) both types in the exact same enclosure. Or (in some cases) a simple switch footpad might work (even if it's not the "right" one). Ths tutorial concentrates on reproducing the footpad sold at Spirit Halloween and some other animatronic retailers. For this, you actually need a piezo sound sensor footpad. If the connector on the toy is labelled "try me" it probably requires a switch, and if it is labelled "Footpad" it probably requires a piezo sensor (although "some" toys will work with either).

A few of the toys I have that require a piezo footpad include Jumping Spiders, Death Row (Electric Chair), Demonica, and Rising from the Grave. These typically seem to be toys made by Tekky Toys (and sold at Spirit Halloween) that use a sound sensor for activation).

The theory is essentially the same for both a switch and a piezo element. You put a switch or piezo element in the enclosure and hope that when they step on the footpad they hit that switch or element (which activates the toy).

The steps to make (or repair) either kind are basically the same. You simply replace "piezo element" with "switch" in the tutorial and you're done.

[Piezo pic]

While I can't promise that it is correct in every instance, the Spirit Halloween pads that I have disected use a 27mm iron piezo element. Also, piezo elements go by many names and are sold as elements, buzzers, speakers and many other names. The name is unimportant. What is important is that you purchase the bare element which is basically a ceramic disc mounted to a metal disc (usually iron or brass/copper). These are available in Canada at some electronics part stores for "roughly" $3.00 each. They are also available from China for MUCH MUCH less (depending on the quantity you purchase). Unless you plan to purchase a large quantity, I recommend you purchase elements with leads already soldered to them as soldering onto the ceramic disc must be done quickly to avoid damaging the silver coating which has the same melting point as most electrical solders.

I don't know enough about piezo elements to tell you if other sized elements will do the job, or if there's a significant difference between the iron and the copper ones. I can say that in my experience, the toys seem to work the same with the 27mm iron elements as with the 27mm brass/copper elements. I have not yet tried any other size element, but I am hoping to try a small piezo element (12mm or 15mm) with Bonus Project 2 below (in the "remote control" section).

A footpad consists of basically 2 finished parts. An enclosure, and a lead wire with either a switch or a sensor on one end and a jack or other connector on the other end. The enclosure for either variation is the same as the other.

In my original post I recommended using a membrane switch (for a switch type footpad). That switch worked well under ideal circumstances but there were too many circumstances which weren't ideal. And on Halloween you need it to work unless it's actually broken. Instead I recommend using a low profile switch (like a 12x12x4.3 mm switch). I can't make an "exact" recommendation because I simply used switches that came with my toys as "try me" switches (I disassembled them and took the actual switch out). Look for a very low profile switch (preferably with a relatively large base) that won't flip inside the casing and can probably withstand being stepped on.

If you've really come here because you want to build one (or more) of these footpads, odds are good that you don’t really need a “How to” so much as you need a “What parts and where do I get them?”. This list assumes that your toy has 1 of 2 typical FootPad connectors found on many Halloween toys.

So for those of you that just want a parts list, here you go

When ordering from AliExpress, mind the shipping charges (I usually only order from sellers that ship for free).

Piezo Element ($1.40 for 6) Or local electronics parts shop for about $3.00 each

or alternately a Momentary Switch 12mm x 12mm (or larger) x4.3mm (or smaller) - not for use with a footpad connector

3 Meter headphone extension jack (97 cents each) [lead wire with new style connector] or check local dollar stores

optionally (Old Style) Connector (KF2510) ($1 for 10) possibly required for old style footpad connector

Foam insert (too expensive to buy for 1 - find something cheap and fluffy - NOT bubble wrap - $13 for 50 sheets)

Plastic/vinyl for body (car body decal vinyl - $2.13 = enough to make 4)

In addition to the parts above, you will need

To skip all of my ramblings, a down and dirty version is available near the end of this blah-g entry.

** This probably won't even last until this page is published but... a "switch" version of the step pad is "currently" (at the time I typed this) available for $1.40 (regular $7.99) plus tax and delivery at or primecables. I probably won't update these links and if they continue to sell the product at a reasonable price, I'll probably leave the link here (even after the sale price expires). That version probably won't have the connector type you need as it comes with (I believe) a 2.5mm XH-style male connector. This footpad will NOT work with toys that require the piezo type of footpad.

If you’ve ever bought one of those “Step Here” footpads from Spirit Halloween or one of the other Halloween specialty suppliers, then you know that they’re expensive (at least by the time you get them to Canada) and don‘t last. What I really wanted, was to “fix” my pads (that cost me almost $20 each) as opposed to building a new one.

[original switch pic]After tearing apart one of my broken step pads, I found a silver disc (about the size of a Canadian $2 coin) with another disc on it, soldered to the lead wire. That’s it. That’s a piezo element (also called a piezo sensor, speaker or buzzer). There’s nothing else to it. It’s a small sensor in a big “step here” plastic casing. Ok, to be fair there’s also a very thin foam padding inserted in the plastic casing.

So in order to fix mine, all I really needed to do was find a new piezo element and solder it on to the existing wire, put it back in the case and tape the case closed.

A quick search for “27mm piezo” on eBay or Aliexpress should yield good results and then you can fix your old footpad. I purchased a couple locally then ordered 100 from AliExpress for about $5.00 (given how often they seem to break, I figured I'd like to have some on hand).

Now, before we get into this, I decided to build the foot pads “as close to the Spirit Halloween version as possible”. There's no reason other than that for the dimensions in this tutorial. Feel free to adjust to your needs (or wants).

My Halloween toys typically come with one of 3 types of connector. The first is the 2.0 mm PH-style "try me" connector. The others are the FootPad/Remote connectors. They are usually either 2 pin connectors (the old style connector which I believe is a standard KF2510-2 connector) or the new style which is a 1/8 inch (3.5mm) mono headphone jack. All can be found on eBay or Aliexpress. When looking for jacks, keep in mind that stereo jacks may be cheaper to buy than mono (and if wired correctly, should work just as well). I say "should" because there is a VERY slim chance that the contact in the toy might hit the plastic divider on the stereo jack, although if they're built to industry standard, they shouldn't (all of mine work correctly with stereo jacks). You can also source headphone jacks from the electronics aisle of your local dollar store (look for splitters and adapters using the headphone jack - That way you may get 2 or 3 jacks for $1.00). Note that I offer no advice searching for connectors other than the FootPad connectors. If you're going to use a "try me" switch (or connection) for this, it's best if you have saved the original try me switch connector. While my toys typically have one of these three connectors, yours could have a different size or type of connector. It's up to you to source a connector if you didn't save the original (or you could solder lead wires directly to the toy if you know where and how).

It is significant to note that I am cheap. As such, all parts are sourced from the cheapest supplier I could find (usually in China). That means that it took almost 2 months for most of the parts to arrive. If you need your parts sooner, look for a local supplier and be prepared to pay significantly more. If you're not in a hurry, but not "months" patient, look for suppliers that ship using "ePacket" or "AliExpress Standard Shipping" methods (which typically take a couple of weeks and cost a little more). The headphone jack is compatible with the newer toys and it was cheaper to buy an extension cable than to buy wire and jack separately. Also by using the headphone extension, I was able to convert the female end into an adapter to use with the KF2510 connector.

Cost to purchase enough to make just a single footpad approx $5.00 (some products include enough for multiple footpads and would reduce the cost if making more than 1).

So, what do we need?

Piezo Sensor - $1.40 (for 6) OR Momentary Switch - $1.50 (for 10)
3 Meter headphone extension jack - $0.97
Soldering iron / Electrical solder (on hand)
Connector (KF2510 (x10) - $1.04 - for old style footpad connector)
Foam insert (Pratt Dish Foam too expensive to buy for 1 - find something cheap and fluffy - NOT bubble wrap)
Plastic/vinyl for body (car body decal vinyl - $2.13 makes 4)

Some deliveries from China may come wrapped in the exact type of packing foam sheet recommended for this project, so it may be a good idea to wait for any deliveries to arrive before purchasing the foam sheets. For example my vinyl decal came wrapped in enough foam to make 2 enclosures.

If ordering the headphone extension jack to use as your wire and connector (and I do recommend it for a professional looking finished product), consider also ordering the KF2510 2 pin connectors (if you don’t have one from one of your “toys”) to turn the female part of the extension jack (the part you will cut off) into an old style to new style adapter by connecting the female jack to a KF2510 female connector. This assumes that you have a use for the old style connector, of course. If you don't need one, then don't make one :).

Depending on what you have on hand, the padding could be the cheapest or most expensive part. For the most part, I had bits of foam padding that came with various deliveries on hand. I sourced the pratt dish foam as being "almost ideal" (except for the cost). The foam insert is to give it a some depth (it needs to bring in and expel air for the sensor to activate. You can use thin packing foam if you have some handy or perhaps “buffalo snow” (sheet). Just about any thin fluffy material that will bounce back after having been stepped on. I used spare packing foam which is virtually identical to Pratt Dish Foam (50 sheets). Don't use bubble wrap for this purpose. While it is soft and cushy, it will not force any significant amount of air in and out and the sensor needs that to activate. Just think "thin soft foam" and I'm sure you'll find something cheap (or free). Another idea I had (and have not tested) was to fill the enclosure with a noisy plastic (like the stuff they wrap flowers with) so that when stepped on it will make noise (which would also activate a piezo sensor).

Probably the hardest part was deciding what to make the step pad body from. I eventually went with “Carbon Fiber Decal Vinyl Film” from Aliexpress. I chose that particular product strictly on a cost basis. That is to say it was the cheapest “black vinyl sheet” I could find. It’s the same stuff they make phone wraps from so it can handle a little abuse, and it is adhesive on one side which solves the problem of “closing” the case. It is available in matte black (or a number of other colors and styles) for a slightly higher cost. In a pinch, I suppose you could use vinyl adhesive shelf liner which is available at almost any big store like Canadian Tire or Walmart.

[Vinyl Pic]My Carbon Fiber Decal came wrapped in just the type of foam padding I need for this project (enough to make 2 pads - BONUS!). And the vinyl I ordered is 20cm wide (just shy of 8 inches) x 127 cm long, so I need only worry about making the cut every 12 inches.

Now on to the fun stuff.

The piezo sensor is basically a tiny generator and while I'm told that it creates AC voltage, the Spirit Halloween sensors always have the "tip" of the jack connected to the ceramic disc and the sleeve/ring to the metal disc. I recommend you stick with that convention (I have NOT tested it with the connections reversed).

[3.5mm Jack pic]I can't promise that your colour coding will be the same, but "my" headphone jack was coded as follows

Since our purpose only requires a MONO jack, I soldered the red (ring) and copper (sleeve) together as one lead and used the blue (tip) as the other lead. It is important that the "tip" be one lead and the sleeve be the other. The ring should either be attached to the sleeve or not connected to anything. I recommend attaching the ring to the sleeve just in case the contact in the toy (not being designed for a stereo jack) is where the ring is located instead of where the sleeve is (better safe than sorry). If your wires are enamel coated (each individual strand of wire is coloured instead of being in a coloured sleeve) it may take a little more heat to solder than usual (to get past the enamel coating). You may need to scrape or burn the enamel coating off in order to get a good electrical connection.

Soldering to the ceramic disc is fairly straight forward, but try not to heat the ceramic disc any more than absolutely necessary. You can avoid this by buying piezo discs with leads already attached. You can then connect your wire to those leads, but when placing the element in the enclosure, make sure those thin wires remain inside the enclosure to help protect them. If purchasing piezo elements without leads attached, you may want to order a few extras (I'm lead to believe that it's normal to mess up when you're not used to soldering to the ceramic).

Soldering tips from a guy who maybe just got lucky. That is to say that my advice may be entirely useless. Soldering requires 4 hands. One for the solder, one for the soldering iron and one for the wire and another for the thing you're soldering to. Since you don't have 4 hands, wherever possible get something to hold the workpiece and the wire. If you plan to solder fairly regularly invest a few dollars in "helping hands" which is basically a stand with some aligator type clips to hold your work.

Also, don't solder without flux. While flux is not required to solder or some solders have a flux core, using a separate flux will speed things up considerably.

Tin the wires first.Put flux on the portion of the wire that you want solder on, then heat your soldering iron and melt some solder onto the iron (preferably so a little ball of solder looks like it's about to drip off of the iron). Then push the wire into the hot ball of solder that's about to drip and pass it back and forth through the drip until it evenly coats the wire (basically it should look like you plated the wire and there should be no significant buildup of solder on the wire). This works well for both regular wires and for the enamel covered wires. Note that tinning wires requires heat transfer and should be done before any wires are touching the discs.

Once the wires are tinned, you can attach them to the existing solder pads or solder them directly to each of the ceramic and metal disc. If necessary, solder the other ends to the appropriate jack terminals (or wires). If using a switch, solder the leads to the switch.

Now that soldering is done, you can test the element (if you have a suitable multimeter) by attaching a mulitmeter to the leads to test for millivolts. With your (suitable) multimeter connected, lightly tap (or blow on) the ceramic portion of the disc and the multimeter should register a few millivolts momentarily as you tap (or blow). Meters which cannot measure millivolts likely won't read anything and the true test is to connect it to an animatronic's footpad connector and tap to see if it activates the toy. When testing using a toy, always test multiple times as sometimes outside elements can cause an activation (remember this is basically a vibration sensor). Do not touch the wires when testing because in some cases, your body may provide enough charge to activate the toy (another reason to test multiple times). A switch can be tested for either resistance or continuity (just make sure it's working).

Once that’s all tested and functional, it’s time to enclose it in the vinyl.

Cut a single piece of vinyl (to be folded) 12 inches by 8 inches. Of course, feel free to make any other size that you want, but be aware that this footpad works only if the user steps on the switch (or the sensor). A larger pad leaves more area for someone to step onto a space that will not activate the footpad. A paper cutter works well for cutting this vinyl at right angles and with straight lines if you have one (scissors work too).

Cut 2 pieces of your foam padding about 5 inches by 7 inches which will leave you with 1/2 inch all the way around for the adhesive to form the closure (or slightly larger if you want a thinner border).

Fold your vinyl in half and crease it before you start. This will give you the chance to get the fold right before peeling any of the backing paper. Now peel the backing off of what will be the bottom half of your enclosure. Set your vinyl on a flat surface with the sticky side up. Place one piece of foam padding centered on the sticky part of the vinyl. Place the piezo element or switch in the center of the enclosure (or where ever it is most likely to be stepped on) and use 2 sided tape (on the back of it) to prevent it from rotating after you close the enclosure.

Place the second piece of foam (or other fluffy padding thing) over the first piece (with the piezo element between the two) so that there is about 1/2 inch of sticky vinyl exposed around the edge when you’re done. Alternately, you could peel the backing from the top piece of vinyl and stick the foam padding to it. double check the placement of your piezo element (very near the exit where the wire will come out of the enclosure) so that (when stepped on) the air exiting the enclosure must pass over the ceramic disc. Put a small piece of tape on the crease where the wire exits to prevent it from sticking when you close the enclosure (air needs to escape here).

Now peel the backing from your top half (or second piece) of vinyl (if you haven't already stuck foam padding to it) and carefully place the vinyl (sticky side down) to the foam and bottom vinyl (sticky side up) that’s on the flat surface in front of you (in other words, close the vinyl casing). You should also do this carefully. While the vinyl I used can be reopened if needed, it's best if it's stuck just one time and left. Check that the sides are fully closed and (if needed) use a little tape to ensure they are air tight (except where the wire exits).

If needed, trim the little extra bits off the enclosure to neaten it up (being careful not to cut your wires). And finally, depending on how sticky your vinyl is (or isn't) you may have to put it under something flat and heavy to hold it closed for a while (until the adhesive forms a good bond) and then . . .

You’re done.

You could add “Step Here” using vinyl lettering, paint or some other mark to denote that it’s a switch, but that costs money and I’m cheap.

Okay, and after all of that rambling . . .

The Down and Dirty version

[2510 to Jack pic]


if using a headphone extension jack (instead of just wire)
cut the headphone extension cable jack a few inches from the female end
optionally connect KF2510 to the female part to make an "old style to new style" adapter (crimp and/or solder)

[no pic]

if you're not using a headphone extension, solder your jack or other connector to the end of the wires (no pictures as I used premanufactured jacks)

[soldered switch pic] | [soldered Piezo pic]

solder the male part (or bare wires) to the switch or piezo element

[Open Vinyl pic]

cut, crease and remove the backing from vinyl cover piece (or pieces)

[padding installed pic]

cut and stick padding to the bottom and top vinyl (or in this case, left and right) leaving a border to close the vinyl

[ready to close pic]

Place the switch or piezo element on the enclosure in the very center of the bottom (tape in place) and route the wire out of corner that will be folded.

[completed pic]

close the vinyl body

trim as neeeded



Step Pads are good, but remote controls are better.

The first animatronic Halloween toy I ever bought came with a remote control. I loved watching the reaction of parents at the end of the walkway when I hit the button and my toy jumped unexpectedly to scare them. Sadly, after 2 Halloweens, the remote could no longer be found. Purchasing a replacement remote would have cost as much as the toy had cost me originally. We replaced it with a step pad. It's never been the same . . .

. . . UNTIL NOW!!!

Here I'm going to walk you through how I added remote control relays to "many" of my Halloween props. All three of these projects have been tested. I used the main method for the 2018 Haunted House, Bonus Project 1 on Halloween Night and Bonus Project 2 was installed in numerous toys after Halloween 2018. In my opinion Bonus Project 2 is the best overall solution (but requires the most knowledge, bravery or skill). The main method was the least invasive and required the least "ability". Bonus project 1 was an easy way to modify the main project to save on 12v batteries.

If (like me) you have lots of toys to do this with, Allow me to offer this observation. On Halloween night I spent an inordinate amount of time pressing individual buttons to activate "matter of fact" animatronics (ones that "do" stuff but are low impact). What I should have done was program 3 or 4 of these low impact toys to a single button so I could concentrate more on the timing for pressing the high impact (jump / scare type) toys. For the Haunted House though (which essentially followed a path), one button per toy was literally perfect.

This is basically a long explanation about how and where to (or not to) buy a remote, relay and power adapter, followed by a few paragraphs telling you to put tab "A" into slot "B".

Throughout this text, I provide generic search links for the parts because the prices and availablity on AliExpress and eBay change daily. At the end of the document I will provide links to the actual products that I purchased with a warning that the prices may have changed or the links may expire.

You need to be aware that these remotes will only complete a circuit and may not work with toys that are looking for current on the footpad line. Taping a piezo disc to the relay created enough vibration for the piezo element to activate my toys. The wires need to be run to the piezo disc in that case and not to the relay.

A note about the disclaimer above. On Halloween (and for our Halloween party) I did (in fact) connect at least 4 toys to footpad activators by placing a wired piezo disc inside the remote receiver's box (basically on top of the relay) and the sound/vibration of the relay was enough to excite the piezo disc and thereby activate my toys through the footpad connector. In those instances the relay was used simply for the noise it made and not for it's ability to complete a connection. This basically made a remote control footpad "compatible" activator. A 27mm piezo element does fit inside the box that my receivers came in, but securing it to the relay may interfere with the ability to reach the learning button. I have ordered some smaller elements to see if they work in this capacity (without blocking access to the button). I will update this note with the result.

The first thing we need is a prop with a "try me" switch (or a footpad connector). Most of the ones you will actually want to do this with will probably have one of those. Next we need remotes (of course).

Now you can go to a Halloween specialty site and buy a kit for $30 U.S.. Add another $13 for a power supply and another $23 for delivery and that gives you a total of $66 American That's just under $82.00 Canadian for a single remote. Oh and they ship by UPS who will charge you additional fees for importing your product, bringing the cost well over $100 for a single remote.. I never order things that cross the border via UPS as they always charge import fees. If you really don't want to wait for deliveries from China (which can take 2 months) and you have money to burn, there you go. But . . .

I bought basically the same parts for about $7 Canadian (delivered). Maybe not exactly the same though, as the store warns "[...] two units cannot be used in the same location and be triggered separately". The much cheaper units I purchased are programmable and you can use many in one location. By programmable, I mean the receiver "learns" which remote activates it and does not activate to other remotes (although remote signals can be cloned). Oh and the Halloween shop also sells a 2 and 4 channel relay for $35 and $45 respectively. You can buy the 2 and 4 channel relays outright from AliExpress (or eBay) for less than the price difference from the retailer's single relay price. In fairness, the note from the retailer may just be "in case" you get 2 remotes that use the same digital signature.

Essentially, I purchased a 4-button remote and 4 single receivers (KR1201A @ $2.54 each). I also bought a 4 channel receiver with remote (KR1204-4 @ $8.12), which is handy if a number of your toys are grouped together (then you can run wires from the single receiver to 4 of your toys). I chose to power the receivers independently of each other by battery in order to avoid the extra wires (the whole point of a wireless remote after all is to avoid wires, right?). Don't use the 4 channel receiver if you will need footpad compatibility, it will only be useful for toys which can use a closed circuit to activate. When Halloween rolled around, I opted not to use the 4 channel receiver at all. It was far more practical to use 1 unit per toy.

It is important to note that the frequency of the receivers and remotes that I purchased was 433 MHz. These parts are typically available in 315MHz and 433MHz. It is important only as far as you need to also purchase a remote control that operates on the same frequency as your receiver(s). Likewise if you purchase additional receivers you will want them with the same frequency (unless you also purchase a remote with the other frequency).

I did not search for KR1201A (although that will get you enough listings to choose from). I searched for "remote control relay" and then I sorted by price. I didn't buy the cheapest one available because I wanted to get one with a box. I paid $4.83 for a remote with receiver (and a box) and then $2.54 each for 3 more receivers (with boxes) from a different supplier (gotta save those pennies). I recommend that you do the same. That is, to get one from someone selling both the remote and the receiver together. That will help to ensure compatibility.

Rather than purchasing 12 volt DC relays like I did, you could optionally get AC relays (look for 110v or 85v-220v). These can by plugged into the wall to use AC power instead of my choice to use 12v DC. This avoids the need for batteries or an adapter (you just need to add a plug and plug it into the wall). But honestly, it's probably cheaper to buy the 12v power supply from China than it is to buy a mains cord locally to hook up an AC relay. These also come in 1, 2 and 4 channel versions as well as multiple frequencies (typically 433 or 315 MHz). They work with the same remotes. But they are NOT all created equal . . .

A special note about "other" relays. I hesitated to say that there are relays other than the models that I have tested because "some" relays will pass the source voltage through the relay instead of simply completing your "dry contact". That would undoubtedly destroy something inside your animatronics (and possibly give you one heck of a shock). So unless you understand the relay you are purchasing, I can only recommend the KR1201A, KR1204-4 and the relays specifcally listed in Bonus Project 2. The wiring diagrams for the KR2202, also suggest that it isolates the source from the relays (but I don't have one to test). As a general rule, if there are 3 connections for each relay labelled NO/COM/NC, it is "probably" isolated from the source, but you should always check before connecting them to anything that you don't want destroyed. There should be no continuity between any of the pins on the relays (usually marked NO/COM/NC) to either of the input voltage pins(usually marked L/N or V+/V-). If the output is marked L/N then it will NOT work for our purposes (it will pass the supply voltage directly to the output wires). But most importantly . . . If you are not qualified and experienced, do not get AC relays. The potential DANGER TO YOU and your toys is too high.

In addition to AC and 12 volt DC relays, there are also 3 volt, 5 volt and variable (and various other) voltage relays. They are usually more expensive, but I mention them because (in theory) you could supply power to one of the lower voltage relays using the batteries already in one of your toys (depending on the batteries and the relay used). For example, a 5v relay would probably work fine with a toy using 4 rechargeable batteries (4.8 volts) or 3 Alkaline batteries (4.5 volts). A variable voltage relay (usually 4-12 volts) would work with almost any battery operated toy you had (within that voltage range). You would just need to connect it to your existing battery posts. This would allow you to permanently mount the relay in a given toy and not worry about providing separate power. See the Bonus Projects near the end of this page for further info.

While the links I supply are from AliExpress because they are generally cheaper, the products are all available on eBay as well. Beware the pricing on eBay as many sellers use deception to get your attention by including a lower priced (and unrelated) item to get their item listed at an apparently lower price when it is in fact more expensive.

** NOTE - At the time this was originally published, these parts could not be purchased directly from Now they can. Look under "Remote Control Switch". And while it will cost you a few dollars more to purchase directly from them (and the selection is smaller), they promise fast shipping and there's always the obvious benefit of being certain that you're getting the correct and genuine parts. I still prefer to buy from AliExpress and save a few dollars.

[KR1201A+remote pic]There are many remotes available. Be sure that the remote that you order is compatible with the frequency of your receivers. Again it would be prudent to order them as a package from the same supplier (I could have bought this remote alone for $2.18). A search for the particular part number of my remote did not return any helpful results (see the picture instead). Also note that the 1 and 2 button versions of this remote look almost identical. For a few pennies more, always get the 4 button remote. If you ever expand your collection of relays, you'll be covered and if you wear out a button, you're covered. There are many styles of remote that will work with the relays I purchased. This was simply the cheapest one. Most of the receivers and transmitters that I purchased are Qiachip branded.

** A tip from experience. If you will be using multiple remote transmitters, it's best to use different colours (433 MHz / 315 MHz) or different styles to make them easy to tell apart while using them. I had 3 identical remotes on Halloween night and mixed them up more than once. In my own defence, I had ordered other colours but they didn't arrive until November 2nd. Links in this paragraph are to specific products and will not be updated if they expire.

The remote transmitters I ordered came with a battery (not all sellers include the battery), but I will have to supply power to the receivers. These are 12 volt relays and so can be powered by an adapter for long term use, or (I hoped when I ordered) a 12 volt battery for short term use. That was the plan anyway. My hope was to power them by battery, and I hoped a battery would last long enough to get the unit through a 4 hour haunted house party and roughly the same amount of time on Halloween Night.

The problem is that there are very few 12 volt batteries in the consumer market. There are basically the little ones used in remotes (A27 or A23) and that's it, until you get to power tool or UPS batteries, which are generally too big and heavy for my needs. A23 is the battery style used for garage door openers and some wireless doorbells as well as the remote I ordered for this project. It's 12 volts, small and portable. I ordered 5 A23 batteries (and 5 battery holders) believing that they aren't going to have enough power to activate a relay (but what the heck - I'll give it a try).And so, when the relays arrived I did a test (which is now basically irrelevant). The A23 batteries that I bought at my local dollar store, easily powered the remote through the test, as well as through the Haunted house and again on Halloween night. Don't spend the ridiculous amount required for a "brand name" A23 battery, use cheap dollar store batteries. Although it required a fresh battery before each event, I found the A23 battery in this application to last reliably for 6 hours and with varying amounts of reliability for up to 8 hours.

If you're looking for a small solution with triggering only (not holding the relay closed) and for a short term event, the A23 battery should work well. Don't confuse it with the A27 battery which is "almost" the same size but is rated only about 1/2 as powerful as the A23. I would not trust it to run the 4 channel receiver. Also, if you're looking for something to use while "holding" the relay closed I don't think this battery would work well. I would estimate about 8 minutes of "hold" time in total and I'm certain that holding would use a lot more power more quickly than a once per minute half second press. Even if it didn't drain faster, that would only give you about 24 holds of 20 seconds each, so not good for that.

[dc-168 pic][DC connector pic]Since I had (incorrectly) presumed that the small battery would not be useful, I prepared by continuing to look for a bigger battery. My next choice turned out to be a CCTV battery pack. Primarily because any other choice would involve also purchasing a charger, whereas this comes with a 12 volt power adapter. The plus side being that I could use the batteries to power a couple of relays and the 12 volt adapters to power a couple more (2 birds with 1 stone, so to speak). At just under $11 each, I ordered 2 DC-168 packs. A quick note about ordering battery packs on eBay. Generally they just outright lie about the mAh ratings. The one I ordered is rated at 1800 mAh and I suspect it's probably closer to around 450 mAh (again these are assumptions with no facts to back them up). The receivers are rated at 300 mA active and 5 mA at rest, so these should be able to drive them easily for the length of the haunt. Given the performance of the tiny A23 battery, that's a no brainer. To simplify connecting these power supplies and battery packs, I ordered 5 female DC Power Connectors 2.1x5.5mm from eBay for $1.23.

For the moment, the plan was stick a battery to the box that the receiver came in (using hook and loop stickers or 2-sided tape) and run the wires from the holder into the box to power the receiver. And then glue, screw, tape or tether the receiver near the "try me" or "foot pad" port of the various toys.

One last part may be needed. Depending on what kind of connector you plan to use this with, you may need a piezo element. If you are going to use this with a "try me" connector, then no element will be needed (the relay will complete the circuit). If you are going to use it with a "footpad" connector then you will need a piezo element. The reason is that a footpad connector does not look for a completed circuit. Instead, it looks for a tiny voltage present on the line. The easiest way to create the tiny voltage (a few millivolts) is to use the same piezo element that the footpad iteself contains. That would be a 27mm piezo element. Other sizes of piezo elements may or may not work and may or may not damage the internal circuitry of your toy, so I recommend sticking with the 27mm piezo element that is typically found in footpads.

Got the parts? Okay, let's start!

The very first thing to do is to figure out how the relay will be used. All you need to know is whether you will be connecting it to a "footpad" connector or a "try me" connector (they may look the same but they need to be treated differently). If using a "try me" connector, you will need to connect wires directly to the remote relay (as described below). However, if you will be using it to activate a "footpad" connector, you will need to connect those wires to a piezo element and not directly to the relay. The theory being, that the noise the relay makes is enough to activate the piezo sensor and you are simply using the relay as a remote noise maker. If you're not sure which one you need, assume you need just the relay (for now) and if it proves not to be the case, add a piezo element later.

So now is the time to solder your piezo element to the lead wires you will be using.

All further instructions assume that "IF" you're using a footpad connector, you have already soldered a lead wire (or jack) to a 27mm piezo element. If you haven't already done that, do it now.

[wired receiver pic]Alright, so lets start by putting a couple of wires on our DC power connectors (assuming you're using a DC adapter or CCTV battery). Polarity is marked on the black casing of the connector adjacent to the screw terminals. If possible, use a red wire for the + and a black wire for the -. If not, try to use 2 wires that are easy to tell apart (you don't want to reverse them and blow your relay). In the picture to the left I used white instead of black (because I'm cheap and I had some bell wire left over from installing my doorbell).

If using the A23 battery holder, connect the black wire (from the battery holder) to V- (on the receiver) and the red wire to V+.

[Finished Relay pic]Position the KR1201A receiver so that the 5 screw contacts are facing you with the screw heads upward (see picture to the left). Then looking at it (left to right) connect the negative wire (black) to V- and the positive wire (red) to V+.

If using this with a "try me" connector connect one of the switch/footpad wires (to NO) and the other switch/footpad wire (to COM). Don't connect anything to the NC (normally closed) screw port. Note - the red markings on the picture to the left are for reference only and do not actually appear on the relay. Put the relay in the box and route the wires out of the box (as suits your setup) and close the box.

If using this with a footpad connector don't connect anything to the N/O, N/C, or COM ports. Put the relay in the box. Tape or glue the piezo element in the box (in a way that it does not make any contact with the PCB or its solder points). Run the wires out of one of the holes and close the box. You may need to find the best position for your piezo element in the box before deciding where to attach it, I have found that a small piece of double sided tape directly on the blue (or black) relay works best but can interfere with getting to the learning button (if you do this you may need to remove the PCB to properly reach the learning button later). I have not tried attaching it directly to the lid of the box, but I imagine that would work "almost" as well (without hindering access to the learning button).

Glue (or stick with Velcro or double sided tape) the battery holder to the box in such a way that it won't interfere with opening the box. Alternately you could attach it to your toy, but I suggest you don't do that unless you know the installation is permanent. If using a different part than the KR1201A or if your pinout is not identical to mine, follow the instructions based on the markings (V+,V-,NO,COM,NC) rather than the order. Pinout markings can usually be seen on the bottom of the PCB. Note that in the picture of my finished relays (on the right), one has both a jack and a battery holder. DO NOT ever plug in a power supply to the jack while a battery is connected. Or better yet, do not install both power sources on a single board.

I opted to put Hook and Loop (that's like Velcro for cheap people) stick-ons to the box and my toys so that I can move the box from one toy to another if the mood strikes. If you decide to do this, stick the hook and loop pieces to the box and toys separately. Don't attach the two pieces and then remove the backing to place the box. This is simply because the extra pressure you put to make the stuff stick will also press the hook and loops strip together making them tougher to get apart, and increasing the risk that pulling the box off may bring the hook and loop with it. Stick the hook and loop well to both pieces separately and then lightly place the box to catch on the hook and loop (picky aren't I?).

[learning button pic]Almost done. Turn on the battery pack (or plug in the adapter or insert a battery into the holder). Then, to program the remote, press the white (or possibly black) "learning" button on the receiver (may be hidden under the antenna wire) 8 times (this is optional, but highly recommended) to remove all previously programmed remotes from memory. Some models may require you to press and hold for 8 seconds instead of 8 individual presses. When the LED stops flashing (7 flashes), press the white button once. The led will light. Then press the desired button on the remote (typically marked "A"). The unit should now be programmed to complete the connection in the relay while the "A" button on the remote is being pressed (you should see the led light on the receiver when you press the button on the remote). Using this method you can program a total of four receivers to your remote (assuming you have a 4-button remote), simply choose a different button for each receiver that you program.

If these instructions don't work for you, please check with the seller from whom you purchased your product for specific instructions. But before you do, try resetting the receiver by holding the learning button down for "about" 8 seconds (just in case it has previously been programmed with a delay or some other such nonsense). This same procedure is used to clear the timed modes (set by pressing the learning button 4-6 times). Also of interest, these relays can be programmed in toggle or latching modes as well as the momentary mode we're using in this instance (details are usually available in the seller's listing). I highly recommend copying the instructions from the eBay or AliExpress listing and saving them to a text file in case the seller becomes unavailable or should you need to reprogram them later.

Optionally, you could program multiple receivers to use the same button on the remote if you have a need to operate 2 relays with a single button press. 4 channel receivers will automatically recognize the other 3 buttons on a 4 button remote once you program the "A" button. Each receiver can be programmed to recognize up to 20 remotes (25 for some models).

If you're using a battery to power the relay (like me) I don't recommend leaving the battery attached to the receiver when not in use as the receiver is constantly scanning for that remote signal (which will kill your battery in short order). And of course, remember that you can use a DC adapter instead of a battery to power the receiver (watch the polarity when you connect it) or purchase an AC version (see warning above regarding other relays). And don't forget the Bonus Projects as an alternate power source.

Way up at the start, we connected 2 wires to the NO and COM terminals on the relay (or to a pieze element for footpad activations). At the other end of these 2 wires, you will need to attach a connector that fits the toy that you want to use it on. I bet you wished you had saved those "try me" switches now don't you?. The 2 most common connectors for "Footpad" connections are the standard headphone jack (97 cents each) and the (Old Style) Connector (KF2510) ($1 for 10). Most "try me" switches on my toys are either the KF2510 (the same as the footpad) or a slightly smaller 2mm 2 pin connector. Find the right connector and attach it to the 2 wires coming from NO and COM on the relay (or the piezo element) and then plug it into your toy. Pressing the button on the remote will now complete the circuit (if we did everything correctly) and activate your toy remotely. Of course, if we didn't do everything correctly then, y'know, 911 and hope your insurance was paid up.

If footpad activation is not working, make sure your toy is turned on and then try manually tapping the box (which will activate the piezo element). If this works then repositioning your piezo element inside the box may help. If it doesn't then the problem may be a bad piezo element or a wiring issue. If you are able, test the element for voltage (millivolts). A piezo element will produce a few millivolts when blown on or tapped LIGHTLY. You can test for this voltage at both the element itself and at the other end of your lead wires.

Happy Halloweening !!

(it is so a verb... Because I said so... I'm telling mom!!)


Bonus Projects

These bonus projects are more like suggestions than instructions. These are recommended for people with a little more ability and understanding than the typical novice (although I would still consider these very "beginner" level projects). These 2 projects essentially look at ways to have the relay powered by the power already available to the animatronic instead of relying on a separate battery or power supply.

I fear, however, that I must state the obvious. If you use either of these Bonus Projects to power relays directly using the same batteries that are powering your toys, those batteries will wear down more quickly because the remote is ALWAYS looking for the transmitter. Since Halloween animatronics tend to be short term usage, this shouldn't be a problem. However if you are using them in a longer term use (more than several hours), you should consider powering the relay using an adapter instead of batteries. Mine (using bonus project 1) easily lasted the full 5 hours of Halloween night with many more activations than would have been had without the remotes attached.

Bonus Project 1 - If you have already ordered or purchased the 12v relays discussed above

[SX1308 pic] [SX assembly pic]

If you don't want to use a separate power supply (battery) for the remote, you can use a DC step up transformer to draw power from the existing power supply (or battery bank) on your toy to power the receiver. I used SX1308 transformers to step up the voltage on a number of my toys to 12v by splicing into the wires that go to the batteries. Another popular step-up transformer is the MT3608 (it is slightly larger and thinner than the SX1308). If the toy is powered by batteries you can either splice into the battery wires (inside the toy) or connect to the battery connectors directly (which may require you to put a small hole or 2 in the battery case for your lead wires). I used the 12v batteries (23A) as described above for the haunted house this year, but for Halloween night, I used step-up transformers in 8 (of 12) of my animatronics with great success.

For toys that use an external power supply, I found it easiest to make a splitter using DC Power Connectors 2.1x5.5mm to split the power to both the toy and the step-up transformer to power the receiver. These consist of a female jack with leads going to a male jack and another set of leads going to the convertor (or soldered directly to the convertor). By doing this, it can be inserted in-line between the existing power jack and the toy with little or no fuss.

Note that the step-up transformers (both types) generally arrive with the potentiometer (dial) turned about 10 turns too far clockwise and so you will need to turn it counterclockwise 10 turns (or possibly more) before the output voltage begins to adjust. Turning the potentiometer counterclockwise increases output voltage and clockwise decreases. I also found that the SX1308 could be "set" using 2 or 3 AA batteries (3 - 4.5 volts) and then it would continue to output the set voltage (in my case 12v) even when the input was raised to 6 volts (or as low as 3), although I did still test the output voltage of each unit before connecting the receiver. The input voltage on the receivers is 10-14v so 12v is a good setting for the transformer's output.

I also put a simple "switch" on the + (positive) input of the transformer line so the transformer does not drain the batteries when the remote receiver is not needed (or not being used). Of course, all of this "should" have been enclosed in a project box, but there wasn't any time before Halloween to get them cheaply, so that's a project for another day.

Bonus Project 2 - If you have not yet ordered or purchased 12v relays

Functionally identical to bonus project 1 but much smaller. Instead of using a step-up transformer and a 12v relay, you can use a variable voltage relay (just over $5) to accomplish the same thing. This small PCB requires a little bravery on your part but it can (but doesn't have to) be easily embedded in the case of some toys that use 3 or 4 AA batteries or almost any 3.7v-12v DC power supply. This tiny board can fit in the open space in many of the animatronics I own and works with the same remotes as the 12v relays discussed above (although you will want to verify that it works on the same frequency as your remote(s). This mini relay is about the same size as the step-up board in bonus project 1, but since it includes the relay, it is much smaller overall than the combination of the 12v relay and step-up PCB.

If you decide to install these in your toys, make sure that you connect them to the "switched" power and not directly to the battery pack. Failure to do this can result in unexpected drainage of your batteries (or you could install a switch specifically for the relay).


A minor disadvantage is that they don't have a learning button to train them for use with your remote. If you will only need to train them once, this shouldn't be a problem. Or, if you use it with the remote(s) that it comes with, again, not a problem. If you will need to train after it has been installed, you could attach a momentary switch to the "SET" contacts for this purpose.

Wiring these relays is virtually identical to the main project, except that the power should come from the toy's power supply (typically inline for a DC power adapter or wired internally to the toy's power switch for battery powered toys). Also soldering will be required as these do not have the screw posts for connecting wires. And, although untested, I presume these relays will also be loud enough to excite piezo sensors. I will probably test these relays with 15mm piezo sensors which should be small enough to fit almost anywhere I might want to mount these boards (or perhaps even enclosed inline with the power adapter). I will update this section with the results (although it's possible that testing won't happen until next Halloween).

Be warned that these mini relays are difficult to find. Do not confuse them with the readily available remote switches that provide power to the circuit (often sold as LED light switches). Specifically look for the one with NO / NC / COM connectors (although at least one model has only the NO and COM connector). These ones typically have yellow PCBs with a small yellow relay on them (made in Japan). There are similar looking boards that "seem" to do the same thing but do not have an actual relay on them. This project requires the one with the relay as the wrong type will almost certainly fry something by feeding power into the "Try Me" or "Footpad" port.

Here are links to some specific products usable for this purpose. The link contents may change so be certain the product is as described above before ordering. If the listing does not show the same picture shown here then it may not be the same product. Also, these were not the only such products, these were simply the cheapest at the time I checked. Seemingly identical products on eBay were considerably more expensive and so no eBay links are included (although you may be able to find them cheaper than I could if you look). Some of these listings may included transmitters or other goodies. I ordered and tested only the bare boards and none of the extras.

These links will NOT be updated. If they go dead, look for products that appear identical to the pictures shown and have an actual relay onboard as well as NO, COM (and optionally NC) solder points. These particular products are available from "ANNTEM" (in case that helps you search). I have seen a few comparable products from other manufacturers but they looked so much like the switch type products (that I don't want you to purchase by mistake) that I have not included links for those here.

Var Remote Relay 1 [pic]

I did not order or test this exact product but believe the board to be identical to the one below which I did order, I include it because if the shipping ever goes back to being free (it went up when China Post suspended deliveries to Canada) it would be the least expensive and come with a remote. It would be good for anyone with only 1 or 2 animatronics to control (2 button remote). However with the current shipping cost, it is the most expensive.

Var Remote Relay 1 [pic]

DO NOT ORDER THIS!!! Unless you are proficient at soldering. While the price of this item was excellent (under $5.00 for both pieces delivered - at the time of writing), it ABSOLUTELY requires you to be able to solder. The unit arrives preconfigured for "Latching Mode" (one button turns it on and another turns it off). This has been done by putting resistors on the board. You will need to reverse these resistors in order to access "momentary" mode (swap the 2 resistors across the "L" and "M" pad sets - that means to put the "0" Ohm resistor on the "M" side). Alternately if you don't mind turning it on and then off again then you might get away with it in it's native mode. But trust me.. that will get old very fast. You will want it in momentary mode. It also does not come with power or relay leads attached, so you will have to solder them on yourself. On the plus side, mine did come with a "set" button attached which is kinda nice (if you leave the board exposed or if you only need to program it once). This board is identical to the one below with 5 wire connections (except that it is preconfigured for latching mode). The major advantage to this is that it comes with a 2 button remote included. The remote comes programmed to turn it on with one button and off with the other but can easily be used to operate 2 separate receivers in momentary mode.

Var Remote Relay 2 [pic]

I did not order or test this exact product but believe it to be identical to the last one below which I did order,

Var Remote Relay 3 [pic]

I did not order or test this exact product but believe it to be identical to the one below this which I did order,

Var Remote Relay 4 [pic]

This product is the same width and only slightly longer than the next product. The set contacts are just as tiny and just as hard to reach as the next product. Product comes with leads attached to the 4 contacts we need for this project. due to the size of the solder points on these boards, I strongly recommend using the pre-installed leads.

When ordering this product I was required to specify the frequency (433 MHz) and the mode (momentary). This board was a tiny bit more expensive than the other one and for this purpose I prefer the other board (although this one is slightly more functional). You only "need" this board if you plan to use a mode other than momentary or if you have a need for the "Normally Closed" contact. I would recommend purchasing based on price.

Programming both products also seems to work the same way. Connect the set contacts momentarily once. The LED will flash 3 times. Press a button on the remote. LED will flash 3 times to indicate the code has been learned. To clear the codes, short the set contacts for 5 seconds. LED will go from ON to OFF (indicating that codes have been cleared). Programming instructions were included with this product.

Var Remote Relay 5 [pic]

relay with dime [pic]

This actual product that I received is shown in the picture to the right beside a dime to give you an idea how truly small it is. I did manage to solder a switch to the "set" points which are tiny and very close to the multi-pin chips on both sides. I used some solid core 24AWG wire from an old CAT 5 cable which BARELY fit through the holes without being tinned first. At least it came with an antenna and leads attached to the power and switch contacts. It's not nearly as loud as the 12v relays in the main project and so I don't yet know if they can activate piezo sensors for those toys that need them. The programming seems identical to the unit above but no programming instructions were included with this product.

If you need antennas for these (all of the ones that I purchased already had antennas), you can purchase "coil" or "spring" antennas for the appropriate frequency. Or you can make your own by wrapping a covered solid core (not multi-strand) wire around a circular object (like a screwdriver or pen for instance : see the antenna in the second picture above as an example)). A 433 MHz antenna should be "about" 17 cm long before coiling. And about 23 cm for 315 MHz. Please note that antenna creation is an exact science and these very rough instructions are a guide based on my experience and in no way claim to be accurate or even better than nothing at all. Feel free to use a dipole calculator for more precise measurements. You will need an antenna if you find the remote only works within a few meters of the transmitter (and doesn't already have one installed).

At the risk of stating the obvious, the unit has to be powered up for in order to be programmed. Some boards may require you to solder across contacts to enable momentary mode (usually marked with "M") or Latched mode (marked "L"). For others you may need to specify momentary mode when you purchase the product.
















Prices and links will NOT be updated and are only accurate for the time I made my actual purchases.

Urgency Notice. This document recommends a number of products from China. Shipping from China is typically very slow. If you're in a hurry... ePacket is your friend. Shipping by ePacket generally arrives in about 2 weeks. It is usually a little more expensive than the default shipping methods, but if you hope to get your stuff in anything resembling a hurry (at a reasonable price), look for sellers offering ePacket or AliExpress Standard Shipping as a shipping option. (**2 weeks is a generalization - not a promise)

More warnings - Sometimes a toy which requires piezo sensor may work (unreliably) with a regular switch. If you find your toy only works sometimes with a switch or works when you test for connectivity or when you are personally touching the wires as they connect but not alone, the toy may be checking for current on the line in which case you should try a piezo disc instead of a switch.




As promised, here are the links to the actual products that I purchased. Given the 2 months from the time I ordered until publication, it is HIGHLY likely that these links will expire or that the prices will not be what I actually paid. Also, be aware that there may be better deals currently than are available at these links (if they are still good). And last but not least, products may be updated so that ordering the same thing doesn't guarantee that you will get the exact same one I got.

Single Relay with remote control ($4.83 on AliExpress - Luckys Girl Store)

Single Relay ($2.54 on AliExpress - Waitting for you Store)

Arduino transmitter and receiver ($2.12 on AliExpress - Luckys Girl Store)

4 Channel Relay with remote ($8.33 on eBay - monokingtu_1) - link expired search for "12v 4 ch remote relay"

12v power supply ($2.12 on AliExpress - Good luck to.,)

12 volt battery pack ($10.87 on eBay - US-PKmoto) - at last check, this item no longer shipped to Canada search for "DC-168"


What follows are the instructions for the KR1201A and KR1204-4. I would say "in case you need them", but it's really so I can find them 2 years down the road. Other QiaChip receivers could possibly be programmed using the same instructions. These instructions have been "re-worded" by me to make more sense to an English reader. Also the KR1204 that I have works as outlined below and not necessarily how the qiachip instructions stated.

12V 1CH Channel Relay RF Wireless Remote Control Switch Receiver Module 433MHz (KR1201A)

About Working modes:

Clearing learned codes :

Learning a momentary code :

Learning a Toggle code : 

Learning a Latching code :

Learning a Timed code :

NOTE: The receiver can only store 20 remotes signals, after 20, the first remote signal learned will be lost. (some models may hold 25)


12V 4CH Channel Relay RF Wireless Remote Control Switch Receiver Module 433MHz (KR1204-4)
Working Modes Description: 433 MHz Universal Wireless Remote Controls Switches DC 12V 4CH

* This receiver absolutely requires a 4 button remote to operate correctly. It may or may not work partially with a lesser remote.

About Working modes:

Working Modes Setup:

  1. Momentary mode: Press the learning button on the receiving board once. When the LED indicator lights brightly press any button on the remote control.
  2. Toggle mode: Press the learning button on the receiving board twice. When the LED indicator lights brightly press any button on the remote control.
  3. 4CH switching mode: Press the learning button on the receiving board three times. When the LED indicator lights brightly press any button on the remote control. Press any button connects that relay and disconnects ALL others
  4. 2CH momentary (A & C) + 2CH Toggle (B & D): Press the learning button on the receiving board four times. When the LED indicator lights brightly press any button on the remote control.
  5. 2CH Momentary (A & C) + 2CH switching (B & D): Press the learning button on the receiving board five times, When the LED indicator lights brightly press any button on the remote control.
  6. 2CH Toggle (A & C) + 2CH switching (B & D): Press the learning button on the receiving board six times. When the LED indicator lights brightly press any button on the remote control.
  7. 2CH Switching (A & C) + 2CH switching (B & D): Press the learning button on the receiving board seven times, When the LED indicator lights brightly press any button on the remote control. - On my remote the A&C switching is backward - A turns C on and A off while C turns A on and C off. B & D work as expected
  8. Delete existing remote control data: Press the learning button 8 times. The LED indicator on the receiving board will flash 8 times, and the existing remote control(s) will be deleted successfully.

Pinout (counter clockwise from learning button - top view)

GRD - Ground (V-)
+V - Power (V+)

  1. C - N/C
  2. C - Com
  3. C - N/O
  4. A - N/C
  5. A - Com
  6. A - N/O
  7. D - N/C
  8. D - Com
  9. D - N/O
  10. B - N/C
  11. B - Com
  12. B - N/O


To remove previously programmed remotes, press the learning button 8 times. To factory reset the receiver, hold the learning button down for "about" 8 seconds.